As soon as you begin noticing the piles, they're everywhere you look, in virtually all sizes and shapes. Driving from the busy Balinese capital of Denpasar in the direction of the north-east coast, I learn to count the different types of items heaped on the side of the road.

One can find piles of bricks, cement bags, sawdust, tiles, wood made, kindling, peanuts, rice, stone carvings as well as spiritual offerings of flower petals. And also on the heads of women, well balanced magically in reed baskets, there are teetering towers of palm fronds and fresh fish, fruit and veggies. Lots of piles of stuff are being made into other stuff in Amed Indonesia nowadays.

Australians frequently stress about the volume of stuff we produce and consume nevertheless we are not alone in these practices of heaping and hoarding. Some of these piles are created for the building sites that continuously spring up throughout Bali.

New hotels, shopping centres, educational institutions and houses are chewing up former rice paddies and also jungles to accommodate the ever-swelling human population of this island of 3.9 million individuals in and around Amed Indonesia today.

It's my very first journey to Bali island in 20 years and I'm decided to avoid the heaving tourist centres in the south. A buddy has instructed me to head right to Amed Indonesia where he ensures me the Balinese live more traditional lives in spite of the influx of foreigners.

My car owner, a hotel administrator named Agus, speaks wistfully of exactly how the island was two decades ago. ''We used to discuss things, be collective, but now we are all folks and everyone desires to go to McDonald's,'' he says.

Agus has worked in Seminyak for 10 years nevertheless is planning to return to his rural village when he is old. ''There, if in case you have no food, your neighbour is going to feed you,'' he states.

As we pass the coastal villages north of Denpasar, I halt counting the piles of stuff and begin seeing how the jungle is creeping back, trying to recolonise the space taken by creating sites. There are fantastic flowering vines of greenery stretching up and over the whole thing, in a rush to reclaim the land.

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